Menswear Spring Summer 2020

NABILA KAULIKA on MEN'S CORNER, 27/06/19

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From streetwear to enigma—the latest showcase of Men Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 gives masculinity a new definition.


Valentino

This season, Piccioli chose an imaginative and almost child-like approach to the collection; finding the balance between structured sophistication and eccentricity through graphics and colors. Throughout the show, there was magic in each look. The collection ranges from beaded shirts, trousers with threads hanging from each corner, to embroidered scenery on coats.  The whole show feels like an adventure, model after model gracing down the runway in an imaginative landscape printed on their shirts, jackets, even hats!

Fendi

With the whole set, collections, and accessories, Fendi almost seems like growing a garden. Fendi created a collection that was enchanting while making each piece wearable for everyday wear—a very fabulous everyday wear indeed. Fitting to the whole theme of the show, Silvia Venturini curated the pieces in an earthy, muted palette of browns, beiges, and greens combined with functionality of the materials—silks, cottons, wool, cashmere, leather, suede, and denim. As if to further the growing garden fantasy, the show is filled with plantation patterns, straw hats, and very fashionable gardening gloves. 

Saint Laurent

Using Mick Jagger as inspiration, Anthony Vaccarello brings androgynous and fluid fashion to a whole new level for Saint Laurent Men’s SS20. With a beautiful sunset and ocean waves elevating the mood, models emerged from the backdrop and walked the runway in a combination of sexy sheer shirts and the slim cuts tailoring Saint Laurent was known for. Vaccarello takes a step forward out of Hedi Slimane’s shadow in a collection of sequined one-shoulde tops, deep v-cuts sheer shirts, embroidered tunics, and sparkly harlem pants.

Dior

Stunning as ever, Kim Jones brings fort another beautiful pieces for Dior Homme SS20, on a pink runway.  In collaboration with Rimowa, the two brands have come together to create backpack, hand case, champagne case, clutch, as well as cabin suitcase. There was subtle touch femininity in the collection, as well as a beautiful drape twist to the tailored suits. Each fabric and pattern used in this collection is mesmerizing; from a beautiful sheen, newspaper prints, hand-pleated swirling patterns, to the Dior monogram we all know and love. Overall, the show was breath-taking—tailored suits, shirts, and coats—each with its own beautiful take and twist.

Givenchy

Clashing the olds and the new, Waight Keller successfully combined tailored suits and futuristic athleisure into one collection.  The olds, taking the shape of a suit, ranges in style; from the return of the three-button jacket to a sleeveless suit. Those that stood out include reflective fabrics, found in Korea, that further the look of futuristic technical wear. This season, Givenchy ends the debate of tailor vs athleisure by combining it all together—styling tailored suits with technical outwear pieces, combined with accessories ranging from classics to magnetic webbing belts.

Off-White

Virgil Abloh takes a stand in an on-going war against climate change by dedicating the show to plastic.  In collaboration with Lenny McGurr, many of the pieces were decorated in vivid strokes, scribbles, and graffiti. The collection featured cycling vests, tailoring, soft trenches, denim, dresses, and a blanket!  The finale was definitely the heart of the show, where models graced down the runway in graffiti splattered tailoring in collaboration with Futura 2000, representing the artistic experience of graffiti.